Hunky chef Denevin Miranda is heating up New York’s culinary scene—and his new restaurant, Alessa, might be his best work yet
New York boasts one of the most luxurious culinary scenes in the world. The city constantly reinvents itself with new establishments yearly while maintaining its classic, old-money favorites. Despite the financial barriers guarding the top spots, it remains a rare haven where LGBTQ+ chefs can truly thrive and be their authentic selves.
At Alessa, the latest restaurant vying to attract New York’s chic crowd, So.Gay ventured into the kitchen to interview executive chef Denevin Miranda, one of the hottest gay chefs in the industry, whose talents have led renowned restaurants in Miami and the Bahamas.
The muscular chef eagerly discusses any dish on Alessa’s menu, such as the Octopus Carpaccio, where he filets the octopus and dresses it with lemon oil, pickled grapes, and cucumbers. The appetizers are crafted to deliver bold flavors while leaving room for the main attractions: pizzas and pasta dishes with a modern flair.
Miranda gives us an insider’s look at his career, breaking through the culinary industry’s gay glass ceiling, and explains why his latest 5,400-square-foot masterpiece, spread across two floors and owned by 212 Hospitality, is set to delight all palates.
After all, Miranda says the pleasure of making love is not unlike the joy of indulging in great food. Flexing his Spartan arms with a cheeky smile, it’s easy to imagine that many of the restaurant’s patrons would happily volunteer as tribute to test his theory.
Located at 237 W. 35th St., between Hell’s Kitchen and Chelsea, Alessa’s opening gives residents of these two iconic gayborhoods the perfect opportunity to experience the latter. Miranda tackles approachable Italian cuisine with his knack for mixing classical and modernist cooking techniques.
“Food connects people from around the world in New York because, within just a few blocks, you can experience every possible cuisine,” says Miranda. “I love history and how food evolves. Learning about different cultural experiences and cuisines and seeing how they bring people together fascinates me.”
However, history can be relative and biased, as the chef has learned firsthand. His journey began with a personal tragedy—the murder of his grandfather by bandits at his farm in Tarlac City, north of Manila in the Philippines—which profoundly influenced his path in the culinary world.
Miranda exclusively reveals to So.Gay that part of his story, which had previously been shared with the press, was fictionalized by his parents. They obscured the fact that the Marcos regime assassinated his grandfather—a government ruled by martial law from 1972 to 1981—after being caught hosting rebel rallies at his farm.
What remained true was his grandmother selling the farm and opening a restaurant to create a new livelihood, which she maintained until the family immigrated to Long Island. Even then, she continued using food to bring together loved ones and strangers alike, far and wide.
“I saw how much she loved cooking and hospitality and bringing people together through food,” says Miranda. “That was something that very much inspired me to pursue a career as a chef.”
Ironically, like his grandfather, he faced distrustful systems of power and had to navigate success in a culinary realm that oppressed others like him.
“Traditionally…the kitchen isn’t very inclusive of queer people,” says Miranda. “When I was younger and working in restaurants, queer servers, and bartenders were often ostracized by the kitchen staff. I’d hear them being mocked, and it offended me deeply. But at the time, I was also scared to come out myself.”
As he worked his way up to filling top positions, including managing kitchen staff, he prioritized fostering an inclusive culture and promoting diversity within every team.
He’s aware of the privilege that comes with the opportunities he’s been given and hopes to keep the door open for others.
“Being an out gay chef who operates kitchens and works in this environment—I’m quite proud of that because there aren’t many of us,” says Miranda. “I want to set an example for others who might feel encumbered by this kind of environment because it’s not entirely friendly in the kitchen.”
However, he advises aspiring gay chefs not to forget the value of tough love and having mentors who constantly push you to improve. Success doesn’t happen overnight; without connections, the journey usually starts from the lowest positions.
As for Alessa, only time will tell if it becomes a household name in New Yorkers’ plans.
But with a talented, hot gay chef, a solid cocktail list, and a sprawling venue, it’s off to a promising start.
